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Jinju: A City of the Great Imjin War Battle and the Nam River진주: 임진왜란 3대 대첩과 남강의 도시

The floating lanterns on Jinju's river look purely romantic — until you learn they began as wartime signals in a besieged fortress.

Jinju, in Korea's southeast, is a city defined by a fortress, a river, and two sieges. When Japan invaded Korea in 1592 (the Imjin War), Jinju Fortress guarded the gateway to the fertile Jeolla region. In November that year (the tenth month by the lunar calendar), commander Kim Si-min and roughly 3,800 defenders repelled a far larger Japanese army — a defense Koreans count among the three great victories of the war. The following July, however, the Japanese returned in overwhelming force; the fortress fell, and its garrison and much of the population were massacred. From that tragedy comes Jinju's most famous legend: Nongae, a gisaeng (courtesan-entertainer) who, during the victors' banquet at Chokseongnu Pavilion, is said to have embraced a Japanese general on a riverside rock and leapt with him into the Nam River. The rock, called Uiam ('Righteous Rock'), still sits below the pavilion. The floating lanterns that fill the river each October also trace back to the siege — lanterns were used for military signaling and to send word across the water. Today the Jinju Namgang Yudeung Festival turns that memory into one of Korea's most beautiful autumn spectacles, with thousands of glowing lanterns drifting beneath the fortress walls.

경남 진주는 성(城) 하나, 강 하나, 그리고 두 번의 전투로 설명되는 도시다. 1592년 임진왜란이 터지자 진주성은 곡창 호남으로 가는 길목을 지키는 요충지였다. 그해 11월(음력 10월), 진주목사 김시민은 약 3,800명의 병력으로 수만의 일본군을 물리쳤다 — 한산도·행주와 함께 임진왜란 3대 대첩으로 꼽히는 진주대첩이다. 그러나 이듬해 7월, 일본군은 압도적인 병력으로 다시 쳐들어왔고 성은 함락됐다. 수성군과 백성 상당수가 목숨을 잃었다. 이 비극에서 진주의 가장 유명한 전설이 나온다. 논개다. 승전 잔치가 촉석루에서 벌어지던 날, 기생 논개가 강가 바위 위에서 일본 장수를 끌어안고 남강에 몸을 던졌다고 전해진다. 그 바위는 '의로운 바위', 의암이라 불리며 지금도 촉석루 아래 그대로 있다. 해마다 10월 남강을 가득 채우는 유등도 그 전쟁에서 왔다. 등불은 포위된 성의 군사 신호였고, 강 건너 가족에게 소식을 전하는 수단이기도 했다. 오늘날 진주남강유등축제는 그 기억을 한국에서 가장 아름다운 가을 풍경 중 하나로 바꿔놓았다. 수천 개의 등이 성벽 아래 강물 위를 흘러간다.

If you go가신다면

Getting there.가는 법. KTX from Seoul to Jinju Station (about 3.5 hours) or express bus from Seoul Nambu Terminal (~3.5 hours); the fortress is a short taxi or city bus ride from either. From Busan, an intercity bus takes about 2 hours.

Tips.팁. During the October lantern festival, book accommodation at least a month ahead — the whole city fills up. Cross the floating lantern bridge early in the evening before crowds peak. At Uiam Rock and the massacre memorials inside the fortress, keep a respectful tone; this is remembered as a site of great loss as well as heroism.

Best time.가기 좋은 때. Early-to-mid October, during the Jinju Namgang Yudeung Festival; the fortress itself is pleasant year-round.

Places in this story이야기 속 장소

  • Jinjuseong Fortress (Jinju)
  • Chokseongnu Pavilion & Uiam Rock (Jinju)
  • National Museum of Jinju (inside the fortress, Imjin War collection)
  • Nam River waterfront (Jinju)
Sources (5)출처 (5)
  • In the first Siege of Jinju (November 1592 in the Gregorian calendar; the tenth lunar month), commander Kim Si-min and about 3,800 defenders repelled a much larger Japanese army; the defense is counted among Korea's three great victories of the Imjin War. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Siege_of_Jinju_(1592) (cross-checked with VisitKorea Jinjuseong page)
  • In the second siege (July 1593), Jinju Fortress fell and the garrison along with a substantial portion of the population was massacred. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Siege_of_Jinju_(1593)
  • According to legend, the gisaeng Nongae embraced a Japanese general on a riverside rock (Uiam) below Chokseongnu Pavilion and leapt with him into the Nam River after the fortress fell. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nongae
  • Chokseongnu Pavilion was first established in 1241 during the Goryeo dynasty and served as a command post for defending the fortress in wartime. VisitKorea (Korea Tourism Organization) — Chokseongnu/Jinjuseong pages
  • The Jinju Namgang Yudeung (Lantern) Festival traces its origin to lanterns used for military signals and communication during the 1592 siege of Jinju Fortress. VisitKorea — https://english.visitkorea.or.kr/svc/contents/contentsView.do?vcontsId=96362

Go see it for yourself

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