Nadeuri · 나들이Real Korea, for foreigners

Korea, explained한국 이야기

Holidays명절·국경일

The Great Migration: Holiday Homecoming and Grave Visits민족 대이동: 명절 귀성과 성묘

Twice a year, over 30 million trips clog Korea's highways in a single week — because home, and the ancestors, are calling.

Twice a year, at Seollal and Chuseok, South Korea stages one of the world's densest short-distance migrations. During the 2025 Chuseok special transport period, the government projected about 32.18 million passenger trips, with 9.33 million people moving on Chuseok day alone — in a country of 51 million. Around 85% travel by car, so a Seoul–Busan drive that normally takes 4–5 hours can stretch far longer, and news channels broadcast live traffic maps like weather reports.

Why does everyone move at once? Because the holidays are anchored to place: the family's eldest household, and the ancestral graves. Families hold charye at the eldest son's home, then visit graves (seongmyo) to bow and tidy the site; before Chuseok, relatives gather for beolcho, mowing the grass around ancestral tombs. Industrialization pulled millions from hometowns into Seoul within a generation — so the holidays pull them back.

The state mobilizes for it: extended trains and buses, expanded highway shoulder lanes, and toll-free expressway days around the holiday. Rest stops (hyugeso) become festivals of walnut cakes and udon at 2 a.m. For travelers, the migration is also an opportunity: Seoul empties out, palaces are calm and often free, and city traffic evaporates — as long as you don't try to ride the wave between cities on the peak days.

설과 추석, 일 년에 두 번 한국에서는 세계에서 가장 밀도 높은 단거리 대이동이 벌어진다. 2025년 추석 특별교통대책 기간 정부 추산 이동 인원은 약 3,218만 명, 추석 당일 하루에만 933만 명이 움직였다 — 인구 5,100만 나라에서다. 약 85%가 승용차를 이용해 평소 4~5시간이던 서울–부산이 훨씬 길어지고, 뉴스는 일기예보처럼 실시간 교통 지도를 내보낸다.

왜 모두가 한꺼번에 움직일까. 명절이 '장소'에 묶여 있기 때문이다 — 큰집, 그리고 조상의 산소. 가족들은 큰집에 모여 차례를 지내고 성묘를 가서 절하고 묘를 돌본다. 추석 전에는 친척들이 모여 산소 주변 풀을 깎는 벌초를 한다. 산업화가 한 세대 만에 수백만 명을 고향에서 서울로 끌어냈으니, 명절이 그들을 다시 고향으로 끌어당기는 셈이다.

국가도 총력전이다. 열차·버스 증편, 고속도로 갓길차로 운영, 명절 전후 고속도로 통행료 면제까지. 휴게소는 새벽 2시에도 호두과자와 우동으로 붐비는 작은 축제가 된다. 여행자에게 이 대이동은 기회이기도 하다 — 서울이 텅 비고, 고궁은 한산한 데다 대개 무료이며, 시내 교통도 사라진다. 단, 절정일에 도시 간 이동만 피한다면.

If you go가신다면

Getting there.가는 법. Seoul Station: Subway Line 1/4. Express Bus Terminal: Line 3/7/9 Express Bus Terminal Station. Rest areas are car-only — experience one on any intercity bus ride, which stops at a hyugeso on routes over ~2.5 hours.

Tips.팁. Book KTX tickets the moment holiday sales open (Korail app/website; holiday seats sell out almost instantly). Avoid intercity travel on the day before the holiday (peak outbound) and the last holiday day (peak return). Instead, stay in Seoul: palaces are calm and often free, but note many small restaurants close on the holiday itself — department store food halls and convenience stores stay open.

Best time.가기 좋은 때. Seollal (Jan–Feb) and Chuseok (Sept–Oct) holiday weeks — as an observer, not a participant in the traffic.

Places in this story이야기 속 장소

  • Seoul Station (KTX hub) — watch the migration begin
  • Seoul Express Bus Terminal (Banpo) — the classic homecoming departure scene
  • Deokpyeong Natural Rest Area (Yeongdong Expressway) — Korea's famous highway rest-stop food culture
  • Gyeongbokgung Palace (Seoul) — enjoy the emptied city during the holiday
Sources (4)출처 (4)
  • For the 2025 Chuseok special transport period, the government projected about 32.18 million trips (up ~8% from the prior year), with 9.33 million people moving on Chuseok day. Ministry of Land, Infrastructure and Transport 추석 특별교통대책 — reported at ikld.kr/news/articleView.html?idxno=321444
  • About 84.5% of holiday travel is by private car, causing severe expressway congestion. MOLIT special transport plan coverage — ikld.kr; koreadaily.com/article/20250928212504642
  • The government designates a special transport period with extra highway shoulder-lane sections and waives expressway tolls on the days around the holiday (Oct 4–7 for Chuseok 2025). Ministry of Land, Infrastructure and Transport / Gyeonggi Traffic Information Center — gits.gg.go.kr
  • Holiday homecoming centers on charye at the family home and seongmyo (grave visits); before Chuseok, families perform beolcho, mowing around ancestral graves. National Folk Museum of Korea — nfm.go.kr/english (holiday rites and customs)

Go see it for yourself

Nadeuri maps the places behind these stories — with real directions, local context, and answers from people who speak your language.

직접 가서 보세요

나들이는 이 이야기 속 장소들을 지도에 담았습니다. 진짜 가는 법, 현지 맥락, 그리고 당신의 언어로 돌아오는 답변까지.